Recipes

Wood, Fire and Smoke: Recipes and Techniques for Wood-Fired Cooking

Recipes by: Michael Smith

Wood Fired Cooking

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Wood, Fire & Smoke is a celebration of the intoxicating power of live-fire cooking.

HAY-SMOKED SALMON WITH MARITIME MUSTARD PICKLES

Hay smoking salmon is a quick way to enjoy the fragrance of smoked salmon, finished with the unmistakable smoky perfume of fresh hay. Most salmon-smoking techniques require days of patient smoking with hardwood, but hay adds an immediate burst of distinctive last-minute flavour and fragrance.

SERVES 4

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Ceramic kamado-style grill or other covered grill or barbecue; semicircular grill grate; an armful of fresh organic timothy hay from a local farmer or pet store

INGREDIENTS:

  • 4 skinless salmon fillets (5 to 6 ounces/140 to 170 g each)
  • Sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup (250 mL) Maritime Mustard Pickles (recipe below)

METHOD:

1. BUILD A FIRE

  • Build and tend a wood or charcoal fire in a ceramic kamado-style grill or other covered grill or barbecue, bringing to medium-high heat with a thick bed of glowing hot coals.
  • Position a lightly oiled semicircular grill grate directly over the high heat to allow direct access to the fire while you smoke.

2. HAY-SMOKE THE SALMON

  • Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper.
  • Place the fillets on the grate over the highest heat, add a handful of hay to the coals, and grill until the bottom is browned, 2 minutes or so.
  • Working quickly, flip the fillets over and cover the coals with 6 inches (15 cm) or so of the hay. Within seconds it will ignite. Immediately close the lid and the top and bottom vents.
  • Wait 10 minutes as the aromatic hay smoke flavours the fish as it finishes cooking.
  • Transfer the fillets to a serving platter or plate. Top each fillet with a dollop of maritime mustard pickles. Serve immediately.

Smoking and flavouring with the distinctive aromatic perfume of fresh fragrant hay, a herbaceous smoke that’s very different from wood smoke. A brief last-second smoking method, since dry hay is not a reliable long-term heat source.

MARITIME MUSTARD PICKLES

Chef Craig Flinn began his illustrious culinary career at the Inn at Bay Fortune long before becoming a cookbook author and legendary Nova Scotia chef. His gluten-free mustard pickles are the gold standard for the chutney-style version of this condiment we prefer. All the traditional flavours are included—there’s just a bit more cheferly knife work. You’ll be rewarded with a bright, distinctive all-purpose condiment and an authentic taste of the Maritimes.

MAKES 12 CUPS (3 L)

INGREDIENTS:

  • 3 cups (750 mL) water
  • ½ cup (125 mL) Diamond Crystal kosher salt
  • 3 English cucumbers, unpeeled, seeded and finely diced
  • 4 yellow onions, finely diced
  • 2 celery stalks, finely diced
  • 1 green bell pepper, stem, seeds, and pith discarded, finely diced
  • 1 red bell pepper, stem, seeds, and pith discarded, finely diced
  • 4 cups (1 L) sugar
  • 3 cups (750 mL) white vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons (30 mL) yellow mustard seeds
  • 2 tablespoons (30 mL) dry mustard
  • 2 tablespoons (30 mL) ground turmeric
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) ground cumin
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) ground fenugreek
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) red chili flakes
  • ½ cup (125 mL) cornstarch

METHOD:

1. BRINE THE VEGETABLES

  • In a medium pot, bring the water and salt to a full boil.
  • In a medium bowl, stir together the cucumbers, onions, celery, and bell peppers.
  • Pour the boiling salted water over the vegetables. Let rest for 2 hours. Drain well.

2. PICKLE AND PRESERVE THE VEGETABLES

  • In a large pot, stir together the sugar, white vinegar, mustard seeds, dry mustard, turmeric, cumin, fenugreek, and chili flakes. Reserve 2 cups (500 mL) of the mixture.
  • Add the drained vegetables to the pot and bring to a full boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook until tender, flavourful, and reduced, 15 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, stir and dissolve the cornstarch into the reserved vinegar mixture, forming a slurry. Return the heat to high, stir in the cornstarch slurry, and cook, stirring constantly, until noticeably thickened, 2 or 3 minutes.
  • Remove from the heat. Divide among mason jars or resealable containers and refrigerate until cool and thickened further, at least 2 hours, even overnight. Pickles will keep for several weeks.

GRILLED CHICKEN THIGH SALAD

Chicken thighs are perfect for grilling. They’re economical, juicy, simple to sear and brown, and easily absorb the caramelized flavours of high-heat cooking. In this bright summer salad, the classic grilling marinade does double duty as an equally delicious dressing for the finished salad.

SERVES 4 TO 6

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Digital instant-read thermometer

INGREDIENTS:

LEMON MUSTARD MARINADE DRESSING

An all-purpose sauce, perfect for a long-flavoured soak, a bright last-minute salad dressing, and a last-second condiment. Bright, acidic marinades and dressings share many similarities and are thus often used interchangeably.

  • ½ cup (125 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely grated with a microplane
  • 2 tablespoons (30 mL) Dijon mustard
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) Preserved Lemon Purée (recipe below)
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) pure liquid honey
  • 1 teaspoon (5 mL) sea salt

GRILLED CHICKEN THIGH SALAD

  • 8 skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 2 pounds/900 g total)
  • 1 large English-style cucumber
  • ½ teaspoon (2 mL) sea salt
  • ½ teaspoon (2 mL) sugar
  • 2 jalapeño peppers
  • 1 can (19 ounces/540 mL) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • 1 red onion, thinly sliced
  • Leaves and tender stems from 1 bunch of fresh mint

METHOD:

1. MAKE THE LEMON MUSTARD MARINADE DRESSING

  • In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic, mustard, preserved lemon purée, honey, and salt until smooth.
  • Pour half the dressing into a small jar and reserve.

2. MARINATE THE CHICKEN

  • Add the chicken thighs to the remaining dressing.
  • Toss until fully and evenly coated with the marinade.
  • Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least an hour or two or overnight.

3. SMASH THE CUCUMBERS

  • Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise, then crosswise. Lay the cucumber pieces cut side down on your work surface.
  • One at a time, cover each cucumber length with the blade of a large knife. Firmly press down, smashing, even smacking, until the skin cracks, the flesh breaks, and the seeds release.
  • Slice diagonally into bite-size pieces. Discard the seeds.
  • In a medium bowl toss the cucumber pieces with the salt and sugar.
  • Transfer to a strainer set in a bowl, refrigerate, and let drain until chilled and crisp, an hour or so.

4. BUILD A FIRE

  • Build and tend an active fire in your firepit, bringing to medium-high heat with live flame and a growing bed of glowing hot coals.
  • Position a lightly oiled grill grate directly over the fire. Alternatively, light your charcoal grill or fire up your gas grill to its highest setting.

5: GRILL THE CHICKEN AND ASSEMBLE THE SALAD

  • Remove the chicken thighs from the marinade.
  • Place the chicken on the grate and grill, turning occasionally, until browned, tender, and cooked through.
  • Grill the jalapeños to one side, turning occasionally, until charred and softened, then transfer to a resting platter and let rest until cool.
  • The chicken is safely done when an instant-read thermometer in the thickest part of the meat registers 165°F (74°C), but it’s even tastier when it lingers in the sweet spot of the fire, slowly rising as high as 190°F (88°C) before it begins drying out.
  • Transfer to the platter with the jalapeños and let rest for 5 minutes before slicing.
  • Slice the rested chicken thighs into bite-size pieces. Transfer to a serving bowl.
  • Cut the jalapeños in half and discard the stems, seeds, and pith.
  • Mince the jalapeño and add to the chicken along with the cucumber, chickpeas, red onion, mint (if serving immediately) and reserved lemon mustard marinade dressing.
  • Serve immediately. Alternatively, let rest for an hour or so, going with the flow of the party while allowing the salad’s flavours and textures to mingle further, then toss with the mint just before serving.

PRESERVED LEMON PURÉE

Our neighbour Louise is legendary for sharing her preserved lemons. They’re insanely delicious, so rather than make our own we rely on her to keep us well stocked. For anyone who doesn’t live next door, here’s her recipe.

MAKES 2 CUPS (500 ML)

INGREDIENTS:

  • 6 organic lemons, scrubbed and dried
  • 3 tablespoons (45 mL) coarse sea salt
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) coriander seeds
  • 1 bay leaf

METHOD:

  1. Quarter 3 of the lemons lengthwise, stopping about ½ inch (1 cm) from the bottom so they stay intact.
  2. Working with 1 lemon at a time over a small bowl to catch any juices, gently spread open the lemon and remove as many seeds as you can.
  3. Sprinkle in 1 tablespoon (15 mL) or so of the salt and some coriander seeds.
  4. Close the lemon back up, massaging the salt into the flesh and skin. Repeat with the other 2 quartered lemons.
  5. Pack and squish the lemons into a 2-cup (500 mL) mason jar along with the bay leaf and any remaining coriander seeds.
  6. Zest and juice the remaining 3 lemons into the same bowl. Pour into the jar along with any accumulated salt. If the lemons are not submerged in juice, add more until they’re covered.
  7. Screw the lid on tightly and give the jar a good shake. Refrigerate the lemons for 4 to 6 weeks, shaking and inverting the jar every few days.
  8. After preserving, transfer the lemons and juice to a blender or food processor, discarding the bay leaf and any lemon seeds you come across.
  9. Purée until smooth. Store in a clean mason jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 year.

MEXICAN GRILLED CORN WITH CHILI, LIME, AND COTIJA CHEESE

Perhaps the very best way to enjoy a cob of corn, Mexican street food style, grilled and charred, then slathered with a tangy, fragrant topping. It’s worth building a fire just for this treat!

Cooking a whole cob of freshly shucked corn directly over a live fire until tender and flavourfully charred. A simple side dish prepared a myriad of ways around the world anytime a cooking fire is roaring in the hearth when the harvest comes in.

SERVES 4 TO 8

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 cup (110 g) finely crumbled Cotija or feta cheese, at room temperature, plus more for serving
  • ¼ cup (60 mL) mayonnaise
  • ¼ cup (60 mL) Mexican crema or sour cream
  • Leaves and tender stems from 1 bunch of fresh cilantro, chopped, plus more for serving
  • 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ancho or guajillo chili powder, plus more for serving
  • ½ teaspoon (2 mL) ground cumin
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely grated with a microplane or finely minced
  • 2 limes (1 zested and juiced; 1 cut into
  • 8 wedges for serving)
  • 8 sweet corncobs, shucked

METHOD:

1. MAKE THE CORN TOPPING

  • In a medium bowl, thoroughly whisk together the cheese, mayonnaise, crema, cilantro, chili powder, cumin, garlic, and lime zest and juice.
  • Transfer the mixture to a shallow pan or dish large to fit a few cobs of corn. Cover tightly and reserve at room temperature.

2. BUILD A FIRE

  • Build and tend an active fire in your firepit, bringing to medium-high heat with live flame and a growing bed of glowing hot coals.
  • Position a lightly oiled grill grate directly over the fire. Alternatively, light your charcoal grill or fire up your gas grill to its highest setting.

3. GRILL THE CORN

  • Place the corn on the grate and grill, turning occasionally with tongs, until lightly charred and tender, 10 minutes or so.
  • Immediately transfer the corn, a few cobs at a time, to the cheese mixture and roll until generously coated.
  • Sprinkle with a bit more cheese, chili powder, and cilantro. Serve immediately with lime wedges for squeezing.

FLAMING STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKES WITH TARRAGON WHIPPED CREAM

The classic strawberry shortcake elevated with a variety of licorice-like flavours, flourishes, and flambéed fruit. Warm fruit flambéed in an improvised syrup, easy spiced cream biscuits with a sugary crust, and pillowy soft whipped cream intriguingly scented with tarragon.

Flambé is the classic fiery finishing technique for igniting fruits, lighting up crêpes, and generally inciting mayhem. Warming highly flammable high-proof liqueur until its vapours evaporate and spectacularly ignite.

SERVES 12

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Large cast-iron plancha or skillet

INGREDIENTS:

SPICED BISCUITS

  • 4 cups (1 L) all-purpose flour
  • ¼ cup (60 mL) white sugar
  • 2 tablespoons (30 mL) baking powder
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) ground star anise
  • ¼ teaspoon (1 mL) salt
  • 2½ cups (625 mL) heavy (35%) cream
  • 1 teaspoon (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
  • 2 tablespoons (30 mL) raw sugar
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) fennel seeds
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) anise seeds
  • 1 tablespoon (15 mL) butter, melted

TARRAGON WHIPPED CREAM

  • 3 cups (750 mL) heavy (35%) cream
  • 3 tablespoons (45 mL) white sugar
  • 1 teaspoon (5 mL) pure vanilla extract
  • Leaves and tender stems from 1 bunch of fresh tarragon, finely chopped, a few sprigs reserved for garnish

FLAMING STRAWBERRIES

  • 4 pounds (1.8 kg) fresh strawberries, hulled and halved
  • 1 cup (250 mL) white sugar
  • 8 tablespoons (125 mL) butter, softened
  • 1 cup (250 mL) Pernod, Sambuca, ouzo, or other anise liqueur
  • Zest and juice of 1 lemon

METHOD:

1. MAKE THE BISCUITS

  • Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Turn on the convection fan if you have one.
  • Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.
  • In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, white sugar, baking powder, star anise, and salt. Pour in the cream and vanilla.
  • Using the handle of a wooden spoon, vigorously stir until a coarse dough forms.
  • Lightly flour your hands and a work surface. Turn the dough out onto the work surface and knead a few times into a smooth, firm dough.
  • Pat or roll the dough into an even 1½-inch (4 cm) thick disc. Cut into 12 even wedges and transfer to the lined baking sheet.
  • Spread the raw sugar, fennel seeds, and anise seeds on a small plate.
  • Lightly brush the top of each biscuit with some melted butter, then carefully dip the sticky surface into the sugar mixture, gently shaking off any excess.
  • Return to the baking sheet, evenly spaced. Bake until golden brown and crispy, 20 minutes or so.
  • Transfer to a rack. Serve warm or let cool and store in a tightly sealed resealable plastic bag at room temperature for up to 3 days.

2. MAKE THE TARRAGON WHIPPED CREAM

  • In a chilled large bowl, whip the cream, sugar, vanilla, and tarragon until soft and thick. Refrigerate until needed.

3. BUILD A FIRE

  • Build and tend an active fire in your firepit, bringing to medium heat with a glowing bed of hot coals.
  • Position a large cast-iron plancha or skillet over the fire and preheat.

4. FLAMBÉ THE STRAWBERRIES

  • In a medium bowl, toss the strawberries with the sugar until evenly combined.
  • Toss the butter onto the hot plancha. Swirl gently as it melts, steams, foams, and eventually lightly browns. Add the strawberries, swirling and tossing until sizzling.
  • Extend your arm, swing the sizzling pan away from the flame, and tilt the far edge down and away from you.
  • Pour the liqueur into the far corner with the strawberries. Keeping your arm extended, tilt the pan towards the flame until the rapidly evaporating alcohol ignites.
  • Hold steadily as the flames and applause erupt. Sauté as the flames die down and the flavours build, a minute or so longer.
  • Stir in the lemon zest and juice.

4. ASSEMBLE THE SHORTCAKES

  • Cut the shortcakes in half with a serrated knife. Position the bottom half of the biscuits on individual plates.
  • Divide the warm strawberries between the biscuits.
  • Top with a dollop of tarragon whipped cream.
  • Position the top half of the biscuit on top and garnish with a tarragon sprig.

Excerpted from Wood, Fire & Smoke by Michael Smith. Copyright © 2025 by Michael Smith. Photography by Al Douglas. Published by Penguin Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.