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Cured wild salmon
Curing is a method of fish preparation I really love because the flesh comes out so fresh and light while retaining the beautiful inherent flavour of the fish. I like to use this technique throughout the year and just change up the herbs, spices and garnishes as they evolve with the seasons—tarragon in spring, coriander flowers in summer, whole pine cones and balsam fir or juniper in winter. This is a very versatile recipe and can be served as an elegant canapé, a light appetizer or a main course. My favourite fish to use for this dish is wild Pacific coho, but it will work with any species of salmon as well as tuna, trout and halibut. Curing times will vary depending on the thickness of the fillet.
SERVES
Ingredients
Cured Salmon
- 3 cups sugar
- 2 cups kosher salt
- 1 lemongrass stalk, tough outer leaves and stems discarded, roughly chopped
- 1 tablespoon lemon zest
- 1 tablespoon orange zest
- 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh dill
- 1 cup chopped fennel stems and fronds
- 2 cups lightly packed chopped fresh cilantro leaves, stems and roots
- 12 fresh lemon verbena leaves
- 2 fresh lime leaves
- 12 star anise
- 3 tablespoons coriander seeds
- 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
- 1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns
- 1 skinless wild salmon fillet (2 pounds/900 g)
Fennel Oil
- 1/4 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves
- 1/4 cup lightly packed fresh fennel fronds
- 1/4 cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves
- 1/4 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
- 1/4 cup lightly packed fresh tarragon leaves
- 1 cup vegetable oil
Poached Fennel
- 1 fennel bulb
- 4 star anise
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
- 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
Cucumber Juice
- 4 cups cucumber juice (from about 4 English cucumbers)
- 1/2 cup lightly packed chopped fresh mint leaves and stems
- 1/2 cup lightly packed chopped fresh dill fronds and stems
- 1/2 cup lightly packed chopped fennel fronds and stems
- 2 lemongrass stalks, tough outer leaves and stems discarded, chopped
- 3/4 cup fresh lemon juice
- 3/4 cup lemongrass syrup
Serve
- Lemon Gel
- English cucumber (for the balls)
- Salmon roe
- Bronze fennel fronds and flowers
- Wood sorrel, lemon verbena, lemon balm, anise hyssop, cilantro and dill, to garnish
Directions
Cured salmon
- In a large bowl, combine the sugar and salt. In a food processor, combine the lemongrass, lemon and orange zest, dill, fennel, cilantro, lemon verbena, lime leaves, star anise, coriander seeds, fennel seeds and white peppercorns. Pulse to roughly chop. Add the chopped mixture to the bowl of sugar and salt and stir well.
- Spread one-third of the cure mixture in a baking sheet or casserole dish large enough to hold the salmon flat. Lay the salmon on the cure mixture, ensuring that all the flesh is in contact with the cure. Pour the remaining mixture over the fish to cover it completely. Press gently to firmly pack the mixture around the fish. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator to cure for 24 hours.
- Remove the salmon from the cure mixture and rinse gently under cold running water. Discard the cure mixture. Pat the salmon dry with a paper towel. Slice the fillet lengthwise down the centre into two halves. Wrap each half into a tube, tightly in plastic wrap to smooth the exterior of the cured salmon, twisting the ends to resemble a sausage shape. Place in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
- When ready to serve, with the plastic wrap still on to help maintain the shape of the salmon, slice each half of the salmon crosswise into sixteen two-ounce (57 g) slices. Remove the plastic wrap.
Fennel oil
- Fill a medium bowl with ice water. In a small saucepan of boiling salted water, blanch the basil, fennel fronds, mint, parsley and tarragon for 20 seconds. Drain the blanched herbs and transfer them to the ice water to stop the cooking. When cooled, squeeze out excess water so the blanched herbs are as dry as possible. In a high-speed blender, purée the blanched herbs with the vegetable oil until you’ve achieved a smooth green purée, about three minutes. Pour the purée into a medium jar and store, covered, in the refrigerator for two hours.
- Strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve or several layers of cheesecloth. You will be left with a bright green herb-flavoured oil. The fennel oil can be made the day before and stored in the refrigerator in a mason jar or another small sealed container.
Poached fennel
- Pull off and discard the outer layer of the fennel bulb to remove any damaged or blemished spots. Cut the fennel lengthwise into quarter-inch-thick slices.
- Fill a medium bowl with ice and water. In a small saucepan, cook the fennel slices in boiling water with the star anise and one teaspoon of the salt until tender, about eight minutes. Drain the fennel and plunge it into the ice water to stop the cooking. When cooled, drain the fennel again, pat dry, remove the core and cut into bite-size pieces. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Cucumber juice
- In a high-speed blender, combine the cucumber juice, mint, dill, chopped fennel and lemongrass. Blend until smooth. Stir in the lemon juice and lemongrass syrup. Strain the juice through a fine-mesh sieve into a juice jug and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to use. This juice should be made on the day you are serving the dish to ensure it has fresh and vibrant colour and flavour. (This recipe makes more than required; enjoy it on its own for a refreshing summer sip or add a splash of sparkling wine for a garden-inspired cocktail.)
Serve
- Place two slices of salmon in a shallow bowl or coupe plate. Dot the lemon gel on and around the salmon. Peel the cucumber and, using a small melon baller (half-inch in diameter), scoop out five cucumber balls per serving. Season the poached fennel and cucumber balls with olive oil and the remaining half teaspoon of salt. Decorate the salmon with the fennel, cucumber balls, salmon roe and all the citrus- and anise- flavoured garden herbs and flowers. Pour in a few tablespoons of the cucumber juice and finish by drizzling the fennel oil around the fish. Repeat to assemble the remaining bowls.
JB’S TIP: Most important for this dish is simply using the freshest sustainably sourced fish you can find. The longer you leave the fillet in the cure, the more it will take on the flavour of the herbs and spices and the firmer it will become. I suggest 24 hours, but even at 16 hours, you’ll still end up with a delicious finished dish. Play with the curing times to find your preference.
Excerpted from Langdon Hall by Jason Bangerter and Chris Johns. Copyright © 2022 by Langdon Hall Country House Hotel and Spa. Photography © 2022 Colin Faulkner. Published by Penguin Canada, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.
