Veal strips in cream sauce, Zürich-style

By Meredith Erickson

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The best veal I’ve had was at Kronenhalle, Zürich’s famous fine-dining restaurant. I also think Zum Weissen Kreuz, also in Zürich, does an incredible (and much less expensive) version. (Apologies to Zürich, though, the image pictured here is from the Bellevue Hotel in Gstaad, 160 kilometers [100 or so miles] away.) This is perhaps my favorite Alpine dish. High-quality veal is cut into thin strips, gently sautéed in butter with mushrooms and white wine, and served simply over rösti (no surprise, we’re in Switzerland). You could also accompany this with spaetzle or rice or mashed potatoes. It feels hearty and hut-worthy, but still sophisticated (maybe because of the demi-glace?) and somewhat lighter than a lot of mountain cuisine. It’s appropriate no matter the season or occasion; consider it the Alpine version of a blanquette de veau (French veal stew).

SERVES

TO

Ingredients

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
680 grams veal tenderloin, cut into 2.5 to 4 centimeter strips
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup (60 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
450 grams white mushrooms, thinly sliced
1/3 cup (50 grams) minced shallots
Juice of 1/2 lemon
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (200 milliliters) white wine
1/2 cup (120 milliliters) veal demi-glace
1-1/4 cups (300 milliliters) heavy cream
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

Directions

Preheat the oven to 285°F (140°C), or its lowest setting.
Warm a large sauté pan over high heat, then add the grapeseed oil. When the oil is shimmering, add the veal strips and sauté briefly, until they just start to brown; season with salt and pepper. Transfer the meat strips to a plate and keep warm in the oven.
Turn the stove-top heat to medium and then add the butter to the pan. When the butter starts to foam, add the mushrooms and sauté until the liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated, five to seven minutes, but the mushrooms haven’t colored.
Stir the shallots into the mushrooms and sauté until translucent, about three minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and the lemon juice. Pour in the wine, turn the heat to medium-high, and cook until the liquid has almost completely evaporated.
Turn the heat to medium, stir in the demi-glace and one cup (240 milliliters) of the cream, and cook until the sauce reduces enough to coat the back of a spoon. Return the warm veal strips to the pan, and return to a simmer.
With a small whisk, whip the remaining 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) cream to soft peaks. Gently stir the whipped cream, parsley, and chives into the stew.
Serve immediately.